Ladakh-Zanskar

In the meantime, we renamed this trip to 'Ladakh-EXT' because we were not sure whether we would reach Zanskar due to poor road conditions. The situation has now noticeably eased so that we can go back to the old plan. Now the journey is called again: Ladakh-Zanskar.

The Ladakh Zanskar Tour is an extension of the Ladakh Compact Tour. We follow the same route just in reverse. At Lamayuro we leave the highway to Kargil and drive deep into the heart of the Himalayas to Padum, the capital of Zanskar.

Until now, Padum could only be reached from Lamayuro by foot. That was a very arduous trek that led over several 5,000m passes. Since 2020, a road has been completed and it now also allows you to drive to Padum by car or motorbike.

The road connection between Padum and Kargil has existed for a long time, and so we take the opportunity to expand our Ladakh compact tour with the detour to Padum and thus enrich it noticeably.

The drive to Zanskar is a real adventure. If a trip through the Himalayas is no picnic anyway, the trip to Zanskar requires the mobilization of the last reserves of fitness and driving skills. Road in this region is not synonymous with road in our latitudes.

As a reward, we experience untouched nature. Only here and there do we find tiny settlements, for which the term village is already a gross exaggeration. Three or four houses in the traditional style, small gardens for self-sufficiency, a few animals and lovable, friendly people who eke out a hard life here. Otherwise mountains, valleys, rocks, scree - a landscape, barren and hostile to life and yet beautiful and beguiling.

The map is not entirely correct because google-maps does not yet know the new road from Lamayuro to Padum. Therefore think of a direct connection from Lamayuro (B) to Padum (C).

Routing

1. Day: Arrival to Delhi

Today you are flying to India. The next morning, around 8 a.m., you fly on to Leh. Since you arrive at the international terminal but fly on from the domestic terminal, you must first check out, i.e. through passport and visa control, wait for your luggage, change to the shuttle bus to the domestic airport and check in again there. The whole thing can take five to six hours. So you have to schedule your flight to Delhi so that you arrive on time, preferably no later than 03:00.

The easiest way is to ask Prima Klima to book your flight. They know the dates and know which flights are okay.

In Leh, our staff will pick you up at the airport and take you to the hotel.

2. Day: Arrival in Leh

Your plane from Delhi landed in Leh early this morning. The day begins with breakfast. A relaxed first day in Ladakh's former capital lies ahead of you. Once you've got a taste for it, you won't want to leave this city at all. The calm, happy composure of the Buddhist population is extremely contagious, and soon the last remnants of stress and hectic will melt away. Whether it's a walk through the narrow streets of the old town, a visit to the Shanti Stupa, a tour of the palace or an "observation post" in one of the many cafes - today it's time to relax.

Overnight stay at approx. 3,500 m above sea level

3. Day: Takeover of the bikes - first ride / ca. 50 km

After breakfast it's off to the bikes. Our guide and mechanic will give you a brief introduction to handling the bikes. The modern Himalayas require little conversion. The days of shifting gears to the right and the brakes to the left are long gone. In addition, our staff will try to give you an insight into the "logic" of Indian road traffic. Just this much in advance: What is happening on India's streets has nothing to do with logic and rules. Here everyone does what they want, and there is only one law, that of the strongest. Since we are not among the strongest with our bikes, there is only one rule for us: ride defensively and let the others go first. So we can get through India safely and safely back home.

A short round trip takes you to some of the most beautiful monasteries in Ladakh, especially the monasteries in Thikse and Hemis. The Stok Palace and Spituk Monastery are also on the itinerary. And when you come back to the hotel later, you are so familiar with the bikes and the traffic as if you had never done anything else.

Overnight stay at 3,500 m above sea level

4. Day: Drive from Leh to Lamayuro / ca. 115 km

National Highway No. 1 (NH 1) runs from Leh to Srinagar in Kashmir. It is in very good condition in parts as it is maintained by the military. But the harsh weather repeatedly causes the first holes to form in the asphalt, and the many trucks tear up the road for kilometers. This goes on until you can hardly get through, and only then do the road workers move up and roll out a new thin layer of asphalt. In the meantime, however, the same game has already started elsewhere, and so the girls (yes, young women are not uncommon in Indian road construction) and boys from the BRO (Border Roads Organisation) are busy and have a secure job.

We are looking forward to the first real ride in our Enfields and arrive in Lamayuro in the late afternoon, a little exhausted. Here we find one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh. The complex is perched high on a rocky hill, and from there you have an excellent view of the so-called "Moonland". Around the monastery, on the hill, the houses and huts where the inhabitants of Lamayuro live "stick".

Overnight stay at 3,520 m above sea level

5. Day: Drive from Lamayuro to Padum / ca. 95 km

Today is going to be a little hairy. The road to Padum is new but not necessarily good. Until recently, Padum and Zanskar could only be reached on foot from Lamayuro. A tedious trek led through rough terrain and over some 5,000m passes. This street has existed since 2020. Let's hope it withstands the attacks of the weather.

Overnight stay at 3,550 m above sea level

6. Day: A day in Padum

We spend a day in Padum and experience a completely different world. Due to the remoteness of the region, a very original culture has been preserved. You can see this in the architecture, in the clothing, in the shops, restaurants and hotels. Everything is very simple and functional. The people are mostly Buddhists and very lovable and friendly. There is a Buddhist monastery nearby that we can visit if interested.

Overnight stay at 3,550 m above sea level

7. Day: Drive from Padum to Kargil / ca. 205 km

Today we have to hurry a little. 205 kilometers doesn't sound like much, but in India, and especially on a mountain road through one of the most remote regions of the Himalayas, that's quite a distance.

Today's destination is Kargil. Kargil is on the cultural border with Kashmir and this is where the Buddhist part of Ladakh ends. We are now in the land of the Muslims. Bearded men and veiled women determine the street scene. An exciting experience. A stroll through the streets of Kargil makes us feel that the cheerful ease of the Buddhists has given way to the strictness of the Islamic faith.

Fortunately, a hotel has finally opened its doors in Kargil, where western tourists can be accommodated without regret. This wasn't always the case, and Kargil was nicknamed "the rat hole". When the war between Pakistan and India raged, Kargil was in the middle of it and all tourism came to a complete standstill. It took many years for the city to recover from this trauma. But now you can see light on the horizon again.

Overnight stay at 2,700 m above sea level

8. Day: Drive from Kargil to Dah Hanu Valley / ca. 75 km

Today we are also going to a region of the Himalayas that is hardly visited by tourists. The journey first takes us to the Dha Hanu Valley, named after two villages in which direct descendants of the Aryans who immigrated more than 4,000 years ago live. The Brokpa, as this tribe is called, differ in culture and appearance from the other inhabitants of Ladakh by their light skin color and blue eyes. In all, the Brokpa live in five villages in the region, but only two are open to tourists, Dha and Hanu. The valley is named after them.

There are no hotels or guest houses, so we spend the night in a stationary tent camp.

Overnight stay at 3,240 m above sea level

9. Day: Drive from Dah Hanu to Alchi / ca. 100 km

It always goes along the Indus River. Since the river keeps bursting its banks, we have to reckon with heavy road damage and temporary diversions. Nothing can be planned. The adventure can come.

Alchi is an ancient Buddhist monastery known for its beautiful murals. There is a very relaxed atmosphere in the small town. There is a large market where you can buy all kinds of souvenirs, and the place also delights the traveler with a German Bakery, where you can taste delicious cakes and good coffee.

Those who wish can head to the nearby Rizong Monastery, which has the reputation of being one of the strictest monasteries in Ladakh.

Overnight stay at 3,130 m above sea level

10. Day: From Alchi to Diskit in the Nubra Valley / ca. 185 km

Today it's up high, very high, to the highest motorized pass in the world. A must for every self-respecting biker. We pass Leh without stopping and head straight for the ascent to the pass. At the beginning we still find good road conditions, but about 15 kilometers before the pass the fun stops. It's rodeo now. This part of the route has never seen asphalt and a gravel road is an absolute luxury compared to what awaits us before Kardung La.

But we will still get to the top. All our guests made it and you too will proudly reach the highest pass in the world. The highest tea shop in the world sells squeaky-sweet Kashmiri tea, and those who still have strength can climb a few meters higher and visit a small temple at the top. It really doesn't get any higher.

We must not linger here too long. Quickly a pass-photo, and then it's off to the descent. The first 15 kilometers are a nightmare here too, but then the road gets better and a few hours later we reach our hotel in Diskit.

Overnight stay at 3,180 m above sea level

11. Day: A day in the Nubra Valley.

You really deserve the rest day. We still have a big effort ahead of us and should take the opportunity to slow down a bit today. Nevertheless, if you feel like it, you can jump on your bike and explore the Nubra Valley.

Not far away, in Hunder, there are sand dunes and camels invite you to take a little ride. In Panamik further north there are hot sulfur springs. However, the hygienic conditions are quite extensive. The ascent to the monastery of Diskit is really worthwhile. Not only is the old monastery itself very interesting. From here you have a great view over the Nubra Valley.

Overnight stay at 3,180 m above sea level

12. Day: Drive from Diskit to Spanmik on Pangong Lake / ca. 160 km

For some time now, the route from Diskit directly to Pangong Lake has been open to traffic on a regular basis. We had no problem getting to Pangong Lake this way in previous years. There are only occasional road closures. We will therefore not take the detour via Leh, as we have done up to now, but drive directly to Spangmik.

There are no hotels in Spangmik, only stationary tent camps. So we will also stay in one of these facilities. Since we will be spending the night at quite a high altitude, one or the other may suffer from a headache. So you should bring headache pills with you. We hardly have to reckon with altitude sickness, since our bodies have now acclimatized and the altitude can no longer really harm them.

Overnight stay at 4,200 m above sea level

13. Day: From Spangmik to Leh / ca. 155 km

The circle closes. One more pass, the Chang La, and we arrive back at the starting point of our journey. If you still have desire, strength and energy, you can visit Chemrey Monastery on the way. Otherwise, we drive fairly directly and without stopping to Leh, where we will arrive in the late afternoon.

Overnight stay at approx. 3,500 m above sea level

14. Day: Rest day in Leh

And you deserve this rest day too. Enjoy another day in this beautiful city, stock up on souvenirs, have your t-shirt embroidered, visit one or more bakeries, in short. have a good time after this certainly exhausting journey.

Overnight stay at approx. 3,500 m above sea level

15. Day: Flight to Delhi

Okay, that's it. Today it's back to Delhi. There you can use the time to look around a little in Delhi. This adventure ends with a joint dinner.

16. Day: Flight home or visit of the Taj Mahal

The adventure comes to an end. At some point in the night to this day, your plane takes off home. Until then, you still have a room in the hotel in Delhi. Latest check-out is today at 10:00 am.

17. Day: Flight home